The standpipe is a long tube that essentially connects the high pressure oil pump to the oil rail beneath the valve cover, which distributes high pressure oil to the top of each injector solenoid. Like all components, it is sealed with an o-ring and is bound to leak at some point in the engine's life.
Standpipes really only need to be replaced when a leak is detected, usually by using shop air to pressurize the system through the ICP sensor fitting. However, you may consider replacing the standpipes with the upgraded parts from Ford when servicing other components beneath the valve cover, such as fuel injectors. The 2003 and early 2004 model trucks equipped with the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel feature a straight "log" style high pressure oil rail while later 2004 to 2007 engines use a "wavy" or "web" style high pressure oil rail. The standpipes are completely different for each oil rail style. Thus, these procedures are not applicable to the later, wavy style oil rail and only outline the procedures for replacing the standpipes on the early log style oil rail.
If you're chasing a high pressure oil leak, we highly recommend replacing the nipple cup/ball tube seals while the high pressure oil rail is off. See 6.0 Power Stroke Ball Tube o-ring replacement procedures for more information.
Standpipe & Associated Part Numbers
Description |
Part Number(s) |
Remarks |
Standpipe |
[1] |
|
Fuel injector o-rings |
--- |
|
Right bank standpipe hose |
International 1837424-C1 |
[2] |
Left bank standpipe hose |
International 1837425-C1 |
[2] |
Engine oil filter |
[3] |
[1] - Identical replacement part for left and right banks
[2] -
Left and right bank parts not interchangeable; right bank located on passenger side, left bank located on driver side
[3] - Replace engine oil after replacing standpipes
How to Remove & Replace the Standpipes on an Early 6.0 Power Stroke
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• Disconnect both negative battery cables.
• Remove all components necessary to gain access to the valve cover, then remove the valve cover. For an in-depth, step-by-step guide to reaching and removing the valve covers, see our 6.0L Power Stroke Injector Replacement Guide.
• Remove the check valve between the braided oil line and oil rail with a 24 mm wrench. Alternatively, the STC fitting can be removed using the proper tool. However, removing the check valve is much easier at this point.
• With the braided line disconnected, remove the oil rail. It is secured to the cylinder head using (8) bolts with 8 mm heads. Be cautious not to drop tools, hardware, or debris into the cylinder head.
• Once the bolts are removed, lift straight up on the oil rail to detach from the injectors. The rail is full or oil, so tilt and let it drain into the cylinder head before removing from the vehicle.
• Release the STC fitting on the braided stainless steel oil line and disconnect it from the standpipe using tool OTC 6594 (see step below for specific information on using tool). Let the oil line drain into the cylinder head then set aside.
• Several connections on the 6.0L Power Stroke use this "STC" or snap-to-connect fitting. OTC 6594 is the proper tool for releasing and disconnecting the fitting.
The forks of the tool are inserted behind the rubber boot as illustrated in the image at left. While pushing the fitting into itself lightly, gently rock the tool up and down then pull apart to disconnect. It may take some practice to get a feel for the proper use of this tool, but it is not a complicated operation.
To reconnect, simply push the fittings together until they snap and lock.
• Locate the standpipe and remove with an 18 mm socket. These can be somewhat stubborn and the tube may even bend while breaking loose.
• Thoroughly lubricate the o-ring seal on the new standpipe with clean motor oil, then install. Start the threads by hand to prevent cross threading. Torque the standpipe to 33 ft-lbs.
• Reinstall the braided line to the standpipe by snapping into place as described in the procedure above.
• Using a small pick, gently remove and replace the top injector solenoid o-rings. Liberally coat new o-rings in clean motor oil before installing. To help the nipple cups/ball tubes seat properly you may also pour a small amount of clean engine oil into the solenoid orifice (this ensures there is plenty of lubrication when the ball tube seats into the injector).
• Reinstall the high pressure oil rail, ensuring that the nipple cups/ball tubes seat evenly in all 4 injectors. Press the oil rail into place using your hand to seat rather than relying on the hardware. Hand start all bolts, then tighten loosely. Torque oil rail bolts to 96 in-lbs (INCH POUNDS). Do NOT overtighten these bolts as they are threaded into relatively soft cast aluminum.
• Reinstall the check valve/braided oil line to the oil rail. Snug up nut, do not overtighten.
• Reinstall valve cover and reassemble all components previously removed. Procedures are identical for both the passenger and driver side standpipes, albeit there is much less room on the passenger side.