6.0L Power Stroke FICM Replacement

How to Troubleshoot & Replace the FICM on a 6.0L Power Stroke

A faulty FICM (fuel injection control module) can cause a number of issues, including a no start condition, rough starting, misfire on 1 or multiple cylinders, engine stalling, and a number of intermittent issues. Battery and alternator condition are gravely important to FICM health and longevity. Replacing the FICM is not a huge undertaking so long as you acquire a preprogrammed unit. You may also choose to replace the FICM relay. The FICM relay is located in one of the under hood fuse panels on the driver side - the exact location varies by model year. Locate the gray relay and verify the part number before replacing. In certain contexts, the FICM may be referred to by Ford as the IDM, or injector driver module.

Applicable Model Years: 2003 - 2007, 6.0L Power Stroke
FICM Relay: Ford part # F8OZ-14N089-AA

6.0L Power Stroke FICM FAQ

What is a FICM?

FICM is the acronym for Fuel Injection Control Module - it's role is to fire individual injections at the right moment and for the right duration. The OEM FICM is spec'd to 48 volts, which means it supplies 48 volts of electricity to the solenoid of an HEUI injector when it is time to fire that solenoid. A dead FICM will therefore leave a vehicle stranded.

What causes a FICM to go bad?

There are a number reasons why a FICM may fail. First and foremost, the FICM is affixed to the driver side valve cover where it is subjected to constant heat and vibration from the engine. In addition, a common failure scenario is related to low battery voltage, either from poor batteries, a bad alternator, or a combination of both. For these reasons, having a properly functioning alternator and healthy batteries is critical to avoiding a low voltage situation. Always check the condition of your batteries and alternator output before replacing a FICM.

What are the symptoms of a faulty FICM?

A faulty or otherwise malfunctioning FICM may be related to a number of conditions including, but not limited to:

• No start condition, including no start only when engine is hot
• Rough start, especially when an engine is cold (problem often amplified in extremely cold weather)
• Engine stalling
• Injector misfires
• Engine runs rough or erratically, including intermittent events

How can I test my FICM?

The simplest way to test FICM output voltage is with a qualified scan tool or diagnostic system (AutoEnginuity, for example). If you do not have access to such equipment, the FICM possesses a small access port held down by (2) T-20 torx bolts. Upon removing the access cover, you will see either 4 or 7 metal pins. 2003 and early 2004 model year engines (build date prior to 9/23/2003) will feature a 7 pin FICM, while later engines will utilize a 4 pin FICM. Using the figure below, you can probe the proper pin to measure the output voltage with a digital multimeter. Place the positive probe on the correct pin and the negative probe directly to the negative battery terminal. It is highly recommended that you wrap electrical tape around any exposed portion of the multimeter probe, leaving only the very tip as not to cause a short to the FICM housing - again, do NOT allow your multimeter probe to touch the FICM housing.

You are looking for a minimum of 45 volts with the key in the "run" position, while cranking the engine, and while the engine is running. Ideally, you want to see 48 volts and you don't want the voltage dropping while the engine is cranking. However, 45 to 48 volts is within factory spec. If you're reading anything under 45 volts, your FICM should be replaced or repaired. If you have 0 volts while cranking, check the fuse and relay for the FICM - you likely do not have logic power to the module.

 

How to test 7 and 4 pin FICM on a 6.0L Power Stroke

FICM test diagram for 6.0L Power Stroke diesel

When selecting a FICM, whether it be new or remanufactured, always order a unit that is compatible with the model year of your truck. Several versions were produced, and while they are all cross compatible, a FICM from a different model year may throw a "soft" DTC (no check engine light).

6.0L Power Stroke Preprogrammed Ford FICM Part Numbers

Model Year

F-Series Pickups

Excursions

E-Series Vans

2003

4C3Z-12B599-CRM

4C3Z-12B599-CRM

N/A

2004

Early build

4C3Z-12B599-CRM

4C3Z-12B599-CRM

4C3Z-12B599-ERM

Late build

4C3Z-12B599-DRM

4C3Z-12B599-DRM

2005

Early build

4C3Z-12B599-ERM

4C3Z-12B599-DRM

Late build

4C3Z-12B599-ERM

2006 - 2007

4C3Z-12B599-ERM

N/A

 

Before proceeding, check your batteries and alternator. The number one FICM killer is a low voltage condition. Therefore, always verify that your batteries and alternator are functioning properly. A fully charged 12 volt automotive battery should read in the 12.6 to 12.7 volt range. Anything lower than 12.6 indicates a battery is not fully charged. If a battery is not holding a full charge, it needs to be replaced. An alternator should maintain 13.3+ volts while running lights and accessories. If you batteries and/or alternator do not fall within spec, they should be replaced before replacing the FICM.

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Removing degas bottle

• Disconnect both negative battery cables.

• Remove the intake tubing between the turbocharger compressor inlet and the air filter assembly.

• Unfasten the degas bottle (two bolts with 8mm socket) then carefully push it aside and out of the way.

Draining coolant from radiator

• Alternatively, you can remove the degas bottle altogether. This allows you to work in a much less cluttered space and protects the degas bottle fittings from cracking while it is pushed aside. To do so, you will need to remove 1.5 to 2 gallons of coolant via the radiator petcock (valve is located on driver side, bottom of radiator). Once you have partially drained the radiator, remove and plug the three hoses connected to the degas bottle followed by the degas bottle itself.

Intake tubing removed from engine

• Remove the intake tubing bracket, which shares mounting studs with the FICM.

6.0L Power Stroke FICM location

• Unbolt the FICM using a 10 mm socket for the (2) bolts located towards the front of the engine and a 13 mm socket for the (2) bolts located towards the firewall.

Note - FICM bracket will vary by model year.

FICM connectors

• With the FICM unbolted, tilt it slightly to access the connectors on the back. Remove all (3) connectors delicately - each is held in place by a locking tab on top and bottom of the connector (2 tabs) that must be depressed before pulling.

• Install your new FICM and replace all removed components in reverse order. Make sure the FICM connectors are fully seated - erratic behavior that is difficult to diagnose has been linked to FICM connectors that are not fully seated.

• Replace engine coolant if it was removed.

Test a 6.0L Power Stroke FICM using AutoEnginuity

AutoEnginuity FICM test

With AutoEnginuity, a PC based diagnostic tool, you check both FICM voltage (delivery voltage to injector solenoids), FICM logic power, and FICM vehicle power (12 volt supply to FICM). You'll want to check these parameters KOEO (key on, engine off), while cranking the engine, and KOER (key on, engine running). This can be used to diagnose a faulty FICM as well as confirm that a replaced FICM is operating properly.

Note - there are additional scan tools available that will allow you to read FICM parameters.

 

Source(s): Ford Motor Company, www.powerstrokediesel.com